Time for Taipei
This is not going to be much of a journal entry. It doesn’t do much more than introduce the fact that I’m now in Taipei, Taiwan, and mention a new angst that I hope won’t be too much of a problem here. Oh, and there’s food involved.
If you found this page through a search engine and aren’t familiar with this journal, rest assured that the other entries are more substantial. Or, or at least longer. Sometimes excruciatingly so. So, by all means, please feel free to look around.
I left my previous stop, Chiang Mai, on a flight that departed a little before noon. It was scheduled to take three hours and forty minutes, but it was about 20 minutes early. Taipei is an hour ahead of Chiang Mei. So the clock-on-the-wall time when I arrived was an hour later than the flight start time and duration would suggest. Upon arriving, I had to go through customs, which took long enough that my bag was already circling the carousel when I got to the baggage claim area.
Taipei’s main international airport, where I landed, is quite a bit away from the city. The cab ride took about 45 minutes or so.
The upshot is that it was dark and close to 6:00 p.m. when I got to the hotel, so I didn’t do much worth writing about. Not, as you can see, that stopped me from writing anyway.
The taxi driver who took me from the airport spoke some, but not much, English. I told her the name of my hotel, and she understood that. Then she asked me a question that I think was confirming the hotel, but I don’t know. Her question didn’t sound like English to me. So I pulled up Google Maps and typed in the English name of my hotel. Google Maps helpfully showed both the English and Chinese names, and I showed that to her. She shook her head yes and made a confirming sound.
That’s a bit of foreshadowing of my new angst. As if I didn’t already have enough angst.
When I checked into the hotel, the front desk staff spoke reasonably good English, although with a pronounced Chinese accent.
After I went to my room, studied the toilet, and changed into a long-sleeve shirt (it’s a bit cooler here, yay!), I went out and walked a block or two from my hotel. My primary purpose was to check out restaurants.
*You might be wondering about that “studied the toilet” thing. It’s one of those jobs with a heated seat, built-in bidet, and a hot-air butt dryer. The words above the control buttons are only in Chinese. But there are icons on the buttons that I think I understand. I believe you can set a focused or wide spray, along with the spray’s intensity. And there’s a button for the butt dryer.
I experienced these sorts toilets on a previous trip to Japan. I’d provide a link but that was before I started this journal. And, as I explain in the “about” page of this journal, I only write entries reasonably contemporaneously. So, there’s nothing to link to here.
Enough about the toilet.
I saw a couple of restaurants nearby, including one that got a decent rating on Google Maps. Neither of them had any English signs whatsoever. They both had menus that had no English whatsoever.
I returned to my hotel and asked at the front desk if restaurants around the hotel usually have English menus. I was told, “If they cater to tourists, they might, but most don’t.”
I asked for a restaurant recommendation. He asked me what type of cuisine I would like. I responded that I wanted local cuisine. He suggested two, one that served beef noodle soup, a Taipei specialty, and another with a broader menu. I told him I’d like to try the beef noodle soup.
He said something to the effect of, “You can get beef soup in our bar. It’s quite famous. And if you’d like, you can try the beef noodle soup with stinky tofu.” He had a bit of a smile on his face when he said that last part.
When I planned this trip and looked for hotels in Taipei, I saw a user review that mentioned the beef noodle soup at the hotel. I’m skeptical about online reviews, but I decided to stay in tonight and eat at the hotel. Now that I’ve newly become nervous about whether I’m going to be able to get by here without being able to speak Chinese, I thought it would be easier.
Taipei Beef Noodle Soup
I looked at the menu. There were three beef noodle soup options: One plain, one with stinky tofu, and one with stinky tofu and something else; I forget what.
Thinking it would be an adventure, I decided to try it with stinky tofu. When I ordered, the waitress looked at me like she was thinking, “Are you totally out of your mind?” With a knowing look on her face, she asked me if I’d like her to put the stinky tofu on the side. I said no. She said she’d put it on the side anyway. I replied, “Okay, now you’ve scared me off of it, I’ll just have the plain soup.”
The soup came in a big, full bowl. The broth had a very meaty flavour. It was filled with large chunks of tender, tasty beef. The soup had a bit of spice to it, but that might be because I used the chilli sauce that came on the side. The noodles were fat and plentiful. I quite enjoyed it.
That’s one meal taken care of without speaking Chinese. I’m here in Taipei for five nights, then off to elsewhere in Taiwan where there’s probably even less English for four nights, and then back to Taipei for one night before I catch a flight back home the next day. If I’ve done the arithmetic right, that’s nine more days that I have to manage meals with only English. So, there you have it, my angst.
Come to think of it, I’ve already got dinner plans for tomorrow night taken care of, but that still leaves a lot of meals to figure out.
If my guidebook is correct, the rapid transit system here posts station names in Chinese and English and most of the tourist sights have English signs. So I think I’ll be okay in that regard. I just hope I don’t starve to death.
Oh, by the way, more than halfway through my beef noodle soup I realized I hadn’t taken any pictures in Taipei because it was already dark. So I decided to take a picture of what was left of my soup because what’s a journal entry without a picture?
Wow. This ended up being a considerably longer post than I expected, by a long shot, and there’s still a short aside to go. Please ignore that remark to new users about this being a shorter-than-normal entry. I hope you enjoyed it. I know I enjoyed the soup.
Aside
Language Misperception on My Part
Before coming on this trip, I guessed, based on very little, that English would be more of a problem in Thailand, where I just left, than in Taiwan.
I didn’t have much to go on when I made that assumption. Still, I figured that Taiwan is such a major trading nation that there probably is a lot of English spoken here because it is the primary language of international business. So far (“so far” admittedly being only a few hours), that doesn’t seem to bear out. And I suspect the other city I’ll visit in Taiwan has even fewer English speakers.
In Thailand, on the other hand, I had no problem whatsoever getting by in English. I suppose if I thought about it, that shouldn’t have come as a surprise. I knew that tourism is a huge industry in Thailand. I think it’s less so here.
English is the lingua franca of tourism. I’ve been to several non-English-speaking countries and overheard conversations between staff and customers in hotels and restaurants where the customer doesn’t speak the local language and isn’t a native English speaker. The conversation invariably is carried on in English. So it makes sense that English is more common in a country that depends on tourism.
I may be using Google Translate a lot here. We’ll see how it goes.
**I hope no one from the government of mainland China reads this. They consider Taiwan to be a renegade province. I understand they get upset when people refer to it as a nation.
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I am sure you will be fine! Another adventure awaits, and a new frontier with Google translate! Can you imagine the fun before instant translation apps? Can you imagine the fun with them? You’ll get very good at scan and translate, at the least, and get to feel that you are really going somewhere very different on the other. And you can always fortify yourself with hearty beef soup at the hotel if you run out of steam. What is stinky tofu, I wondered. Here is an explanation from a site called Atlas Obscura:
The overwhelming smell of stinky tofu is often compared to rotting garbage or dirty, wet socks. But this odorous fermented bean curd is a popular staple of Chinese and especially Taiwanese street food.
Stinky tofu is made in a variety of ways, with the precise fermentation process varying from one street stall to the next (and often kept a secret). The key is the fermented brine in which the tofu is soaked. Traditionally, it’s made from fermented milk, vegetables, and meat, but might also include ingredients such as dried shrimp, amaranth greens, mustard greens, bamboo shoots, and Chinese herbs. The brine is left to ferment for several months, creating a highly potent mix.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/foods/stinky-tofu
They say that it is so stinky that it is rarely served in restaurants, but beloved in stalls in open-air markets. So if you visit one, and are wondering about the stench, look to the food vendors.
What I want is a babel fish. There ought to be babel fish.
Thanks for the info about stinky tofu. I will be at a market, but I don’t know if it’s an open-air one. Maybe I’ll try it there.