Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin & Trastevere

By the time I finished lunch today, it was a couple of minutes past three in the afternoon. Consequently, this entry describing my post-lunch activities will probably be brief. I’ve said that in previous posts that nevertheless turned out to be long. So let’s see how it goes.

This afternoon I only visited the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin and wandered around Trastevere. 

Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin

Viewed from across the street, the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin is a cute little church with a lovely bell tower poking up above it.

Anyone with no discernment in art and architecture and no knowledge of the related religious history might find the interior to be unexciting. I lack artistic discernment and do not know the relevant religious and historical context. So I know what I’m talking about in that regard.

For all I know, art historians who have made an academic study of the relevant religious rites and history might feel the same way. Or they might not. I don’t know. We might soon find out in the comments below. I honestly look forward to that.

To my eyes, the decorations of the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin are sparse and understated. There are a few side chapels with again, in my opinion, meh decorative elements. There are signs in the church recommending a visit to the crypt, but those signs are pointed in the general vicinity of a closed and locked door. I couldn’t see any other entrance to a crypt.

There’s also a gift shop in the basilica. Because, of course there is.

But it’s not the facade, the sanctuary, the alleged crypt, nor, believe it or not, even the gift shop that makes the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin famous. What makes it famous is the Mouth of Truth. An avid reader of this journal first introduced me to the Mouth of Truth some years back. But the basilica was closed when we went by and we could look at the mouth only through the bars of a wrought iron fence.

The basilica was open when I stopped by today and I was able to get up close and personal with the mouth.

Mouth of Truth

According to a legend dating back to medieval times, the Mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verità) is, effectively, a lie detector. It’s a stone sculpture of a face, with an appropriately positioned hole for the mouth. The sculpture is in front of, and possibly affixed to, a side wall of the portico in front of the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin. The story goes that if a liar places his or her hand in the mouth, the mouth will bite off the hand.

Jeez, those medieval folk would believe anything, wouldn’t they?

Today, except for anti-vaxxers and those who think JFK is still alive and living on a space station awaiting an opportunity to return to political power (often the same people), we are much more rational and scientific in our reasoning. We know it must be a myth because if it were at all true, the Mouth of Truth would have long ago burst free, hunted down Donald Trump—to the ends of the Earth if necessary—and swallowed him whole. Until that happens, I’m not buying the story.

You’re no doubt thinking, “Joel, you’re being silly. It’s a heavy stone sculpture. There’s no way it can break free and hunt down Donald Trump. So that doesn’t disprove the story about it biting off the hands of any liars stupid enough to reach into the mouth.”

That may be so, but consider this. Even just while I was there, a large number of people put their hands into the mouth. And there was a steady stream of people doing so. So, many more did so before I arrived as well. Yet I heard no screams and saw no blood or severed hands. You’ve got to figure that, statistically speaking, there’d have to be at least a few liars in a crowd that large. But, as I said, all hands remained attached to the arms they came with. So, no. I’m not going to believe the story.

For the record, I put my hand in and the mouth didn’t so much as nibble on it. Then again, I’ve never lied in my life so that doesn’t disprove anything.

Trastevere

The above-mentioned avid reader of this journal also introduced me to Trastevere. Trastevere is a lovely neighbourhood on the other side of the Tiber River from Rome’s main attractions.

I took a few pictures of the Tiber as I walked by it and crossed a bridge over it. I posted one of those pictures here.

Trastevere has lots of small, charming streets. Many of them are either pedestrianized or have severe traffic restrictions. The buildings along the streets are low-rise and old-world. Restaurants and bars abound. Walking around, as I did this afternoon, is a pleasant way to spend some time.

While in Trastevere, I popped into the Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere. Saint Mary was quite a popular gal, wasn’t she? I visited two of her churches today alone.

I found the Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere to be much more interesting than her place on the other side of the Tiber River. Then again, her church in Trastevere doesn’t have a mouth of truth, so it doesn’t offer a lie detector service.

Despite enjoying it more than the basilica, I still didn’t think the Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere was anything particularly special. Nice enough, but not special. Although, I did very much like the patterned (carved?) three-dimensional ceiling of dark wood and gold colours, with a small octagonal painting at its centre.

The church sits off the Piazza di Santa Maria, a fair-sized square with a 17th-century fountain at its centre. On that earlier trip, the twice twice-mentioned regular reader told me the piazza is the focal point of Trastevere and it can get quite busy. She said that, particularly during the dinner hour, buskers entertain the crowds in the square and people eating at the outdoor tables of restaurants beside the square.

I can vouch for that. During that trip, we had dinner at one of the outdoor tables on the square. The square was indeed quite lively and there were buskers at work.

Today, I wasn’t there at a mealtime. And, despite a sunny, warm morning, the afternoon turned overcast and cooler. Only one restaurant had its outdoor tables set up. The square wasn’t empty, but it also wasn’t lively. And not a busker was to be seen. Nevertheless, it’s still a pleasant square.

I told you this post would be shorter than normal. I didn’t lie. This is it. Catch you tomorrow.